There is nothing out there quite like a tree. Their complex ecosystems, their ability to absorb tonnes of carbon and the materials they bring us. Viscose being one of them, a tree based textile that is one of the most popular in the fashion industry and the third most purchased fabric from our marketplace in 2022. Lenzing has created a storm with the introduction of their tree-based fabric range Tencel which has become an example blueprint for ethical textile production as the industry moves towards biomaterials, natural materials and better alternatives for the planet. We want to go back to basics – what is viscose? Is it the same as tencel? We will look at rayon, viscose, lyocell and modal and unpack what tree-based fibres are, are they better for the planet and what is the difference between them all?
Rayon: The Family Name
Let’s start with Rayon. Rayon is the umbrella term used to describe all fabrics that derive from cellulose in trees, plants and sometimes textile waste. Rayon was the first ever man made fiber and was produced in France in 1884, before the invention of viscose. Although we would expect rayon to be a natural fiber, the process of turning wood or cut trees into fabrics is not as straightforward as others such as cotton (where the flower is picked and spun) or silk. To produce Rayon, the cellulose is extracted, mechanically turned into a pulp, chemically liquified before being molded into the yarn and then it is spun. This process is called viscose which we will go into next.
The problem with the first version of rayon was that it was extremely flammable and dangerous.
Production for rayon ceased overtime, until viscose was discovered, brought to market and mass produced – primarily in the USA where it was called Rayon. However overtime production has moved to China, making it the biggest producer of Rayon in this current time. Rayon is known for its durability, wrinkle-resistance, and easy care. To this day, most cellulose based fibers are known as rayon, including viscose, lyocell and modal.
The science
Regenerated cellulose fibers are obtained by dissolving cellulose (found in the bark of the tree, leaves or plants. As the length of wood pulp fibers is too small for textile use, they need to be processed using continuous spinning and a regenerating technology (Navard, 2013).
Viscose: The process
Viscose is a type of rayon and was invented in the UK in 1892, by Charles Cross and Edward Bevan. At the time, many were looking for an alternative to silk, especially following the failure of rayon. It is made by dissolving cellulose in an alkaline solution, then extruding it through a spinneret to create a thread, which is then treated with carbon disulfide and sulfuric acid to form a viscous solution. The solution (which is what is referred to as viscose) is then forced through a spinneret to create a fiber that is then stretched, dried, and wound onto a spool. The fiber is then spun into a textile. Viscose then became a popular fabric across the industry, however over the recent years the production of viscose has been a huge concerns due to the effects of the toxic chemicals used to convert the wood into fiber for the people that work with it; and the way that chemicals are thrown out into the ecosystem causing damage. So the industry has been seeking alternatives.
https://vintagefashionguild.org/fabric-resource/rayon-viscose/
Lyocell: An environmentally conscious alternative
Lyocell fabric is a type of textile made from wood pulp cellulose, from eucalyptus, although oak and birch wood are also used. Lyocell is also referred to as Tencel – which is the name of the brand owned by Lenzing. As a fabric, viscose often takes up alot of energy and the industry predicts that the tencel range will replace viscose. Unlike viscose, lyocell fabric is made using a closed-loop system. The wood pulp is dissolved by a non-toxic solution of amine oxide to create a viscose paste. The difference between the solution used is that it can be 95% purified and reused again and again in the lyocell process, so has a very low environmental footprint. This is then processed and spun into yarn to produce fabrics.
The end results are a soft, comfortable to wear and highly absorbent material, making it ideal for clothing and bedding. It is also environmentally friendly as it uses fewer chemicals compared to viscose and less water than traditional fabrics such as cotton. Lyocell is a soft, lightweight fabric with a luxurious feel and a silky drape. It is highly absorbent, breathable, and strong. It is also wrinkle-resistant and has a natural sheen. Lyocell fabric is often blended with other fibers such as cotton, spandex, and linen to create a more durable and comfortable fabric.
Modal: The strong one
Modal fabric is a type of fabric made from the cellulose of beechwood trees. It is lightweight, breathable, and soft yet it is stronger than the other types of rayon. Modal tree based fabric is often used to make clothing, bedding, and towels due to its absorbency and durability. Modal rayon also pills less than cotton, and unlike normal rayon, it is safe to tumble dry this fabric.
Bark Cloth: A cousin
Despite the improvements made to rayon over the years, the biggest issue is deforestation, trees are cut down to produce this fabric. Although Rayons are produced across the world, organisations such Lenzing have made it their mission to produce ethical fabrics, according to Good on You, The trademarked TENCEL™ Modal is harvested from PEFC or, less commonly, FSC sustainably-managed beech tree plantations in Austria and surrounding European countries. An alternative to rayon and wood based fabric which is an ancient fibre, yet still emerging is bark-cloth, the tree is not cut down, rather layers of bark are sliced off and the tree is then treated so that it can regenerate a grow back the bark.
So what is the big difference?
All three fabrics live under the name Rayon and are made from wood-pulp which is dissolved in a solution which is then spun into fiber. The difference is the contents of the solution and in some instances the tree family. Lyocell is a type of rayon that is dissolved in a non-toxic solvent. It is more absorbent and breathable than other rayon fabrics. Modal is a type of rayon made from beech tree pulp that is more durable and resistant to shrinkage than other rayon fabrics. Viscose is a type of rayon made from wood pulp cellulose that is treated with chemicals to make it more absorbent and breathable than other rayon fabrics.
Although we are seeing the phrasing out of viscose as the industry opts in for processes that require fewer chemicals and mindfulness of deforestation, we cannot ignore the unused viscose materials as the industry continues to move towards better and safer solutions. Take a look at our collection of viscose finds.