DO YOU KNOW THE IMPACT THAT FABRIC HAS ON PEOPLE AND PLANET?
We are entering a new age in fashion where, with every single purchase we make, we must stand back and consider exactly what it is that we are buying and how it might impact our planet.
Last Yarn believes that the baseline for significant industry change begins with knowledge and transparency. For example, did you know that the equivalent of one truck full of clothes is burned or dumped in a landfill every second (UNEP, 2018)? What’s more, in 2020, textile consumption in the EU caused on average the third highest pressures on water and land use. (EEA, 2024).
This glossary offers an inventory of textiles, delving into the formation of each fabric and explaining its environmental impact. We hope that by reading this page, you’ll be better informed in your purchasing decisions, moving towards a more environmentally friendly planet.
Alphabetical Fabric Jump
Acetate [AC]
Acetate is a man-made, semi-synthetic substance created from cellulose. To be more precise, it originates from wood pulp and is combined with chemicals such as acetic acid (vinegar), acetic anhydride, and sulphuric acid. Subsequently, it is spun into fibres, occasionally blended with other materials, solidified into a sheet, or shaped into various forms. Studies indicate acetates potential biodegradability in certain situations. However, numerous chemicals need to be added to wood pulp before it can become a fully formed fabric. The chemicals can be dangerous to you, the workers that manufacture acetate, the environment where the acetate product eventually lands, and any animals who come across it.
Acrylic Fabric [PC]
The main raw material for acrylic fabric is acrylonitrile (85% roughly). Acrylonitrile is a molecule typically made from non-renewable fossil fuels, making it an unsustainable raw material. Manufacturing acrylic fabric is energy-intensive and chemically hazardous. Significant energy requirements can lead to consequential ecological repercussions, particularly when manufacturing relies heavily on fossil fuels for energy. Using toxic chemicals in the process poses potential threats to humans, wildlife, and the environment.
Alpaca [WP]
Alpaca fleece is a natural protein fibre that comes from alpacas, fluffy animals in the South American branch of the camel family. While we prefer to steer clear of animal products, alpaca wool is a renewable fibre with untreated alpaca fibre being completely biodegradable. Each pound of alpaca wool saves 110 gallons of water. Mostly raised with lots of space in the Peruvian highlands, almost exclusively on small family ranches, the grass has ample time to regenerate, and the alpacas are only sheared once a year under humane conditions. What’s more, alpaca fibre does not contain lanolin or grease; therefore it is easy to wash without intensive detergents or chemicals.
Angora [WA]
Angora wool is a type of wool derived from the coats of Angora rabbits, originally from the city of Ankara in Turkey. One of the main concerns with the Angora wool industry is ethical, not environmental. Angora rabbits traditionally were generally well cared for, but accompanying the Chinese textile boom that has occurred over the last few decades, Angora rabbit maltreatment has become common, leading to backlash from animal rights organisations. Since the formation of Angora wool only constitutes a tiny fraction of overall textile production worldwide, the environmental impact of this fabric is essentially negligible. Coupled with the fact that wool is an inherently biodegradable fabric, Angora wool only harms the environment since animal waste might be improperly disposed of.
Apple Leather - LAST YARN GREEN STAR!
Apple leather is a bio-based leather alternative derived from recycled food waste from the apple industry. It is strong, breathable, hypoallergenic, and suitable for many items, from footwear to clothing and accessories. Long-lasting when looked after, apple leather is vegan and biodegradable when no chemicals or pesticides are used in the process.
Bamboo [BB]
Bamboo can be easily sustained and maintained: a fast-growing grass, it requires no fertiliser and self-regenerates from its roots so does not need to be replanted. The fabric is moisture-wicking, insulating and incredibly soft with a cotton-like appearance. However, the process of creating bamboo fabric can often require intensive chemicals which are harmful to both planet and people. However, in the past couple of years, there has been an improvement in how these chemicals are managed. Bamboo fabrics are certainly better for the planet than polyester and cotton, so as long as the brand is transparent about its origins, bamboo is a more sustainable option for garments.
beLEAF [be] - LAST YARN GREEN STAR!
Nova Kaeru’s material, called beLEAF, is a leather-like material made from the elephant ear plant, a plant native to southeastern Asia and the Indian subcontinent. The material has similar characteristics to animal leather, (strong, durable and can be used for outerwear and interiors). However, the main difference, aside from being vegan, is that the CO2 emissions of its manufacturing process are compensated by the carbon absorption of planting and leaf growth. The production as a result cleans the environment.
Cactus Leather - LAST YARN GREEN STAR!
Cactus leather is a vegan leather made from the leaves of the nopal cactus - a plant that grows abundantly in Mexico, without needing any water. These leaves are harvested from organically grown cactus plants, cleaned, mashed, and left in the sun to dry for three days before being processed. Vegan and requiring very little water use, cactus leather is a reasonably good sustainable leather alternative. That said, it is only partially biodegradable due to its manufacturing process and has a limited life expectancy of around 10 years.
Camel Hair [WK]
Camel hair, also known as camel wool or camel cashmere, is a fabric made using hairs from the Bactrian camel. Their hair is combed out during their yearly moult, it is then collected and separated into fine hair and coarse hair before going through a process called dehairing, a chemical treatment. Although camels are not killed during this process, the farming is questionable as they may be bred in masses to meet high demand and other animals may be killed or harmed to protect the farmland. In terms of the environment, camel wool is an entirely biodegradable substance, which means that it does not contribute to pollution when it is discarded. However, toxins from animal excrement pollute air, water, and soil.
Cashmere [WS]
Cashmere is a natural and renewable fibre and its raw production requires limited chemicals. However, increased demand for low-priced cashmere has been at the detriment of the environment, fibre quality, and herding communities. Keeping cashmere in the loop by recycling yarn is the most ethical alternative to cashmere production.
Cotton [CO]
Cotton is a natural fibre that comes from the cotton plant's seed pods (Gossypium). It is composed primarily of cellulose, a complex carbohydrate found in the cell walls of plants. Cotton is widely used in textile production worldwide due to its softness, breathability, and absorbency. However, cotton is one of the worst fabrics for the planet. Conventionally grown cotton requires too much land, energy and water. It also involves harmful chemicals: pesticides herbicides, and fertilisers during the farming process and contributes to soil erosion and loss of biodiversity.
Cupro [CU]
Cupro is a man-made cellulosic fibre which is made from cotton linters. Cotton linters are short, downy fibres which are a by-product of the manufacture of cottonseed oil. Silky smooth, machine washable, with an excellent drape, it is also technically a recycled fabric. Cupro is a vegan and cruelty-free alternative to silk. Derived from cotton waste, it does provide some solutions to landfills however it still requires harmful chemicals and textiles in production which can be harmful to people and the planet.
Elastane (Lycra/Spandex) [EA]
Elastane (aka Lycra/Spandex) is made from a non-renewable fossil fuel which requires a huge amount of energy to produce and is toxic in landfills. Elastane is produced by Koch Industries – one of the top 30 polluters of America’s air, water and climate. The manufacturing process also emits pollution into the air and waterways which is harmful to both environmental and human health. These textiles take anywhere between 20-200 years to break down releasing formaldehyde, heavy metals, BPA and PFC’s into the air we breathe.
Econyl [H1P (Have1Planet)]
Econyl is recycled Nylon, made in a closed-loop system with considerably less energy, waste, and gas emissions than Nylon. Ideal for sportswear and swimming, it is highly durable and resistant to tearing. Solution-driven, Econyl is often made from old fishing nets that are polluting our oceans; however, it is still plastic and as harmful to the environment as regular Nylon.
Faux fur
Faux fur is made from polymeric fibres that are processed, dyed, and cut to match a specific fur texture and colour. Unquestionably more ethical than real fur, faux fur nonetheless is made from petroleum and can take hundreds of years to biodegrade, inevitably ending up in landfills with microplastics entering our food chain. Bio-based alternatives such as KOBA faux-fur offer a good possibility for a greener faux fur future.
Hemp [CA] - LAST YARN GREEN STAR!
Hemp is derived from the cannabis plant which is a dense fast-growing plant that requires very little water to grow and doesn’t need chemicals, fertilisers, or pesticides. Hemp becomes a linen-like fabric that can also be blended with cotton for a softer feel. It is very durable, biodegradable, and healthy to wear. Soft and luxurious, it is also comfortable, breathable, protects from UV and absorbs moisture. A LY green star fabric, Hemp is very eco-friendly to grow and manufacture. The plant rapidly captures carbon dioxide and cleans the air we breathe. For every tonne of hemp produced, 1.63 tonnes of carbon is removed from the air. The various stages of Hemp production can be done organically through a mechanical process that requires no chemicals. Nevertheless, numerous companies currently manufacture hemp fabric through a chemical-intensive process, which is more environmentally taxing but quicker and cost-effective. A common indication that a hemp fabric has undergone this intensive method is the label "hemp viscose," typically involving the use of harmful processing with toxic chemicals, akin to regular viscose.
KOBA fur (Dependent on ethical source)
ECOPEL Designed by Ecopel, KOBA is a luxurious, versatile, and long-lasting vegan fur alternative made using 100% bio-based Sorona fibres. KOBA fur is made with recycled polyester and plant-based fibres, so it can be recycled at the end of its long life. It consumes up to 30% less energy and around 63% less greenhouse gases than traditional synthetics. Famously pioneered in collections by Stella McCartney, KOBA is not sustainably perfect but is certainly a move in the right direction.
Lace
Lace-making dates back to ancient times, with evidence of early forms of lace found in Egyptian tombs dating back to 2500 BCE. Lace as we know it today originated in Europe, particularly in Italy, Belgium, and France, during the Renaissance period. The Industrial Revolution in the 19th century led to the development of lace-making machines, revolutionising the industry and making lace more accessible to the general population. There are various types of lace, including bobbin lace, needle lace, crochet lace, and machine-made lace. Each type has unique characteristics and techniques. These days, the majority of lace is made from polyester. Since this is a petroleum derivative, that is made using a combination of artificial chemicals, we would always recommend buying second-hand.
Lamb's wool [LW]
Lambswool textiles are crafted from the initial shearing of a sheep, typically when it is still in the lamb stage. This natural material easily decomposes after its lifespan. Throughout its usage, clothing and accessories made from lambswool can be laundered infrequently, conserving both water and energy. Nevertheless, lambswool fibres are sourced from sheep farms, and some farming systems are troublesome, affecting lambswool fabrics’ sustainability and ethics. The manufacturing of lambswool fabrics is energy and water-intensive, making lambswool processing less sustainable. This process starts with collecting the first fleece from a lamb. In many cases, the shearing is painful and stressful for the animal. The end-of-life stage for lambswool is generally sustainable because untreated lambswool is fully biodegradable and compostable.
Leather [LH]
Extensive rearing of livestock for leather and meat has devastating impacts on deforestation, land overuse, gas emissions, and water pollution. The tanning process is also extremely chemically intensive. Not to mention the impact on the animals themselves. Using upcycled and second-life skins avoids the environmental impact of common leather alternatives.
Linen [LI]
Linen is a natural textile made from the fibres of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). It is one of the oldest and most durable fabrics known to humanity. As well as being one of the most biodegradable fabrics in history, the fabric is valued for its strength, breathability, and ability to keep the body cool in warm weather.
Llama [WL]
Llama fibre is an all-natural, biodegradable fibre produced by llamas raised in their native environment, the Andes Mountains of South America. The fibre is hand-shorn annually by native growers, processed chemical-free, and spun and woven into yarns and fabrics that are sewn into garments by local mills. Llama fibre is sustainable because it is produced as a by-product of a natural environment and is harvested with minimal damage to that environment and the llamas that produce it. There is no petroleum consumed as a fibre substrate or energy input in its production. The fibre is hand-shorn annually by native growers, processed chemical-free, and spun and woven into yarns and fabrics that are sewn into garments by local mills. Only the finished product that is exported requires significant transportation. Llama wool is reusable and recyclable, but only biodegradable when undyed.
Lurex + Metallic [ME]
Lurex is a registered brand name for a type of thread with a metallic appearance. Lurex is made from a very fine strip of metal (such as aluminium) that is laminated between two layers of synthetic film. One of the main environmental concerns associated with Lurex fabric production is the extraction of resources. The production of metallic yarn requires the mining of metals such as aluminium, which can have detrimental effects on the environment. Furthermore, the manufacturing of Lurex fabric requires substantial energy consumption, adding to carbon emissions and the overall impact on global warming. Lurex production also generates waste materials such as yarn scraps and residual metallic coatings. These waste products can end up in landfills or incinerators, releasing harmful toxins and contributing to pollution.
Lyocell [LY/CLY]
Lyocell is extracted from eucalyptus trees grown by certified companies Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), which guarantees eco-sustainable eucalyptus trees. Eucalyptus trees grow fast with limited water on low-grade land. The production of Lyocell does not use toxic chemicals and is run on a closed-loop system. Lyocell uses less than half as much water in its manufacturing process as cotton and its breathability means it needs far less washing. That said, one of the major impacts on production is the energy use and the climate impact. If it is produced in countries where there is a large amount of fossil fuels and coal used, then it could be detrimental to the environment. We recommend checking if it can be traced back to the source
Mango Leather [ALY] - LAST YARN GREEN STAR
Mango leather is a solution-driven fruit leather that is bio-based and even home-compostable. The material is vegan and highly sustainable. Fruitleather, also known as mango leather, is a vegan leather alternative made from mangoes in the Netherlands by Fruitleather Rotterdam. It is usually made from the mango skin, which is removed and then processed into leather to make everything from shoes to handbags. Farmers tend to discard up to 40% of their harvest in the mango fields because it does not visually meet supermarket standards so this also solves a huge waste issue.
Merino Wool [WE]
Merino wool comes from merino sheep, predominantly exported from Australia where only 20% of farmers have proven to handle their animals with ethical care. Merino wool is generally considered sustainable. It’s made with merino sheep’s thick fleeces, a renewable resource. Merino wool can be washed sparsely, saving water and energy. Pure merino wool is entirely biodegradable when it reaches the end of its life cycle. However, sheep farming is also responsible for extensive land degradation, impacting biodiversity. Wool is nonetheless a natural biodegradable fibre, but we would always recommend responsibly sourcing and choosing recycled alternatives wherever possible.
Microsilk - LAST YARN GREEN STAR!
Microsilk is a bioengineered fibre inspired by spider silk's strength, durability, and performance. In 2012, Bolt Threads created Microsilk by studying the DNA of spiders' silk and replicating them in a lab by creating proteins through bioengineering genes and inserting them into yeast. The proteins are made in large quantities through fermentation, using yeast, sugar and water. These fibres then go through an isolation, purification and spinning process similar to rayon and acrylic, resulting in a durable, biodegradable yarn.
Modacrylic
Modacrylic is petroleum-based and poisonous to people and the planet. Every tonne emits over five tonnes of carbon dioxide. Modacrylic is made from non-renewable fossil fuels which require a huge amount of energy to produce and is toxic in landfills. The manufacturing process emits pollution into air and waterways, which harms both environmental and human health. These textiles take anywhere between 20-200 years to break down releasing formaldehyde, heavy metals, BPA and PFC’s into the air we breathe.
Modal [MD/CMD]
Modal, derived from beech trees, is a semi-synthetic fibre with a texture akin to silk and cotton. Companies like Tinsel have innovated Modal through a closed-loop system, ensuring minimal environmental impact. This bio-based fabric is crafted by spinning reconstituted beech tree cellulose. Modal is often regarded as a more environmentally friendly option than cotton due to the minimal water requirements of beech trees, resulting in a production process that uses approximately 10-20 times less water. Despite being plant-derived, the production involves immersing the fabric in chemicals like sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide, categorising Modal as semi-synthetic.
Mohair [WM]
Mohair is the long, smooth fibre, that comes from angora goats (leading many to confuse it with angora wool, which comes from Angora rabbits). Most of the world’s mohair originates in South Africa and the U.S. (particularly Texas), where Angora goats are bred primarily for their soft inner coats. While mohair fabric is entirely biodegradable, Angora goats are slaughtered well short of their life expectancy and the shearing process has been proven to often be cruel. Goat farming also contributes to land degradation, as well as air, soil, and water pollution.
Mycelium - LAST YARN GREEN STAR!
Mycelium fabric, also known as fungal leather or mushroom leather, is a sustainable material made from mycelium, the root-like structure of fungi. It is created by allowing mycelium to grow and bind together natural fibres such as agricultural waste, sawdust, or other plant-based materials. As the mycelium grows, it forms a dense network that binds the fibres together, resulting in a strong, flexible, and durable material that resembles leather in texture and appearance. Mycelium fabric is considered environmentally friendly for several reasons. Firstly, it is sustainably sourced and can be produced using agricultural by-products and waste materials. Mycelium fabric is biodegradable, meaning it can naturally decompose at the end of its life cycle, minimising its environmental impact. Secondly, it has a low environmental footprint: the production process of mycelium fabric generally requires less water, energy, and chemicals compared to traditional leather or synthetic materials, reducing pollution and resource consumption.
Nylon/ Polyamide [NY/ PA]
Nylon was the first synthetic fibre made in the late 1930s, and its popularity has continued to grow over the decades. Nylon belongs to the group of synthetic polyamides. It is a material derived from fossil fuels with a plastic base, requiring lots of water and energy resources in its production. Furthermore, the polyamide production process releases nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas which impacts global warming. These harmful gases also negatively impact the health of workers and the community populations near industrial sites. Moreover, polyamide is not biodegradable and its use releases microplastics into the environment.
Neoprene
Neoprene is petroleum-based and poisonous to people and the planet. Every tonne emits over five tonnes of carbon dioxide. Neoprene is derived from non-renewable fossil fuels, demanding a substantial energy input for its production and posing toxicity concerns when disposed of in landfills.The manufacturing process emits pollution into air and waterways which is harmful to both environmental and human health. These textiles take anywhere between 20-200 years to break down releasing formaldehyde, heavy metals, BPA and PFC’s into the air we breathe.
Orange fibre - LAST YARN GREEN STAR!
A lightweight vegan silk-like fabric that is derived from citrus juice by-products and can be dyed and printed. A LY green star which has recently been featured in several designer collections, orange fibre has been recognised for its sustainable mission and innovation. Made from 100% biodegradable food waste, this is a change-maker vegan silk alternative.
Organic Cotton [CO]
Organic cotton is grown following the standards of organic farming exactly as it happens for food products and, as for food products, it needs certification to be defined as "of organic origin." The advantages of the certification of the organic origin of cotton are the exclusion of pesticides, fertilisers, herbicides and over 1000 toxic substances harmful to the environment and to human health, substances that are commonly used both in the cultivation of cotton and subsequent steps e.g production (spinning, weaving, dyeing, etc.). Lower-impact cotton production uses crop rotation and biological means of pest control, which reduces soil, air, and water contamination. Organic cotton uses 80% less water than regular cotton (the equivalent of 99 days of drinking water for the average person) and saves an average of 8% in carbon emissions.
Piñatex
Piñatex is a non-biodegradable leather alternative made from cellulose fibres extracted from pineapple leaves, PLA, and petroleum-based resin. Durable, strong, and water resistant, it is suitable for footwear, upholstery, clothing, bags, and more. Piñatex is not biodegradable as it contains thermo-plastic polyester. Nevertheless, it is still unquestionably a better and kinder alternative to leather.
Polyester [PL/PES]
Polyester is a synthetic fabric that’s usually derived from petroleum. This fabric is one of the world’s most popular textiles and is used in thousands of different consumer and industrial applications. Most synthetic and some plant-based polyester fibres are made from ethylene, which is a constituent of petroleum that can also be derived from other sources. Since polyester is made of plastic, it is not biodegradable and takes hundreds of years for the fibre to dissolve. When sent to landfill, the toxic materials used during the production process leach into the soil and could contaminate the nearby water.
Polyethylene [PE]
Polyethylene as a recyclable textile can in theory be made from broken-down supermarket bags. Soft, silky, stain-resistant, strong, and cool to the touch, it is comfortable and durable. As long as it is kept out of landfills, the concept of turning plastic waste into fabric and keeping materials in use for as long as possible is always preferable. Polyethylene in this way is preferable to cotton and far better than polyester as it is entirely recyclable. That said, like all plastic, if it does end up in landfill it will release toxins into the air and waterways.
Polyurethane [PU]
PU is durable, abrasion-resistant, light, soft, and breathable. More sustainable than traditional plastics and though preferable as a vegan alternative to leather, PU is still derived from dirty fossil fuels but is not quite as toxic to the environment in landfills as it does not contain BPA (a harmful chemical that is often used in plastics to make them clear and strong).
PVC (Vinyl) [VY]
Shiny, synthetic and thermoplastic-coated fabrics engineered for use across a broad variety of applications including artificial leather, sports and fire protective clothing. PVC is made from non-renewable fossil fuels which require a huge amount of energy to produce and is toxic in landfill. The manufacturing process emits pollution into the air and waterways which is harmful to both environmental and human health. These textiles take anywhere between 20-200 years to break down releasing formaldehyde, heavy metals, BPA and PFC’s into the air we breathe.
Ramie [RA]
Ramie is a durable, lightweight, natural linen-like fabric. Ramie can be sustainable unless blended with wool or non-organic cotton, however, blending ramie increases its durability and ultimately the lifespan of the product. Ramie grows well without pesticides and uses considerably less water than cotton. However, overall agriculture continues to be one of the most dangerous industries and Ramies' potential labour issues remain unknown.
Recycled Cashmere [WS] - LAST YARN GREEN STAR!
Recycled cashmere is made from post-consumer yarn that has been painstakingly sorted. Recycled cashmere is natural and biodegradable, negating the negative environmental impact coming from animal mistreatment as well as its carbon impact and land degradation.
Recycled Cotton [CO]
Comfortable to wear, breathable, and soft to the touch, cotton is used in everything from shirting to denim. Derived from post-industrial, post-consumer, and cotton scraps, recycled cotton not only prevents disposal in landfills but also mitigates the emission of greenhouse gases. The versatility of recycled cotton extends to various applications such as cleaning cloths, insulation, clothing, mop heads, and beyond. However, recycling cotton does have some drawbacks. The process does negatively affect the quality of the material. This means that recycled cotton fabric has to be mixed with synthetic fibres. This includes materials such as polyester. On top of this, the impact on cotton quality means that it can’t be recycled continuously.
Recycled Wool [WO] - LAST YARN GREEN STAR!
Our favourite kind of wool - recycled wool is soft, breathable, natural, and durable. Recycled wool not only diverts fabric from landfills but also saves a huge amount of water, reduces high-grade land use, and avoids the use of chemicals, contributing to an overall reduction in air, water, and soil pollution.
Silk [SE]
Despite many seeing silk as a ‘natural’ fibre, the sustainability of the fabric can vary based on how it is processed, and by how sericulture (production of raw silk) facilities are fuelled. For example, creating 1kg of silk requires 187kg of mulberry leaves to be consumed by silkworms.
Processing conventional silk also generates high volumes of greenhouse gases due to the large amount of manure and fertiliser required to grow mulberry leaves, and because coal is used to power a lot of the sericulture facilities, which require energy to maintain boiling water and steam for production. However, such emissions are not intrinsic to the material and could potentially become limited as renewable energy increases, and by changing farming practices.
Soy
In addition to being non-animal based, soy is a lot easier to take care of than traditional cashmere. Soy fabric is made from the waste of soy oil by-products, like tofu. Soy is lightweight, wrinkle-resistant, and machine washable. It is also moisture absorbent, breathable, UV resistant and anti-bacterial. It works well for activewear too. Soy is biodegradable and compostable. However, to become a fabric, the plant needs to undergo a chemical process which allows it to trap and reuse the chemicals (although one of these chemicals is formaldehyde – a possible carcinogen). Soy production also relies on large amounts of pesticides and water and is responsible for large amounts of deforestation and habitat destruction.
Seude
Suede is the inner surface of animal hides. Extensive rearing of livestock for leather and meat has devastating impacts on deforestation, land overuse, gas emissions, and water pollution. The tanning process is also extremely chemically intensive. Not to mention the impact on the animals themselves. We recommend that you avoid animal products wherever possible unless upcycled and opt instead for green textiles such as BeLeaf and Mycelium.
TENCEL Lyocell [TN] - LAST YARN GREEN STAR!
TENCEL Lyocell is a man-made cellulosic fibre, similar to viscose and modal. Wood pulp is dissolved in a solvent, and this mixture is pushed through a spinneret to form fibre strands. The resultant fibres can be spun into yarns and subsequently woven or knitted to create fabric. Possessing cotton-like qualities, TENCEL has an elegant drape and is versatile. In its production, TENCEL consumes less energy and water compared to traditional cotton. As a plant-derived fibre, TENCEL is biodegradable; however, it's crucial to ensure it isn't blended with synthetic fibres like nylon during disposal. While, like many materials, it often undergoes colouring with conventional dyes, TENCEL requires significantly less dye than cotton. Additionally, it is naturally pure white upon production, eliminating the need for bleaching.
Triacetate [TA/CTA]
Triacetate is an improved form of acetate. Combining wood pulp from trees with acetic acid, the material is a semi-synthetic. Triacetate, like all its semi-synthetic cousins (including rayon, lyocell, bamboo, and more), has its downfalls from a sustainability perspective. Chemicals and processing must be used to form triacetate fabric. However, it is a more sustainable fabric than most fully synthetic fibres, since the base material forming triacetate is wood pulp sourced from natural trees. However, for all these reasons, we would always favour the second life triacetate.
Virgin Wool [WV]
Virgin Wool is wool that has not previously been processed or woven. We would always choose second life or recycled wool over virgin wool. While it is biodegradable, the process can often be painful for the sheep and their conditions are for the most part not monitored. Sheep farming also causes extensive land degradation as well as well as polluting air, land, and water sources. For these reasons, choosing second life wools would always be our first choice.
FSC Certified Viscose [VI]
FSC viscose is a more sustainable variant of viscose. FSC stands for Forest Stewardship Council and viscose with this label comes from sustainable managed forests. Wood sourced from responsibly managed forests can be utilised without causing harm to the biodiversity of the originating forest. The manufacturing process however still relies on harmful chemicals.
Viscose (Rayon) [VI]
Viscose is derived from the cellulose (or, wood pulp) from fast-growing, regenerative trees such as eucalyptus, beech, and pine. The cellulose material is dissolved in a chemical solution, resulting in a pulpy and viscous substance that is subsequently spun into fibers, forming threads. Being a plant-based fiber, viscose is not inherently toxic or polluting. Nevertheless, due to the rapid growth of the fast fashion industry, a significant portion of the current market's viscose is produced inexpensively, employing energy- and water-intensive processes with chemical inputs. These methods have severe consequences on workers, local communities, and the environment.
Wool [WO]
Wool is breathable and a natural insulator. Wool has an ability—similar to Tencel—to react to changes in the body’s temperature, meaning it keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter. Wool is usually biodegradable. It decomposes readily, much like cotton and other plant-based fibres. That means once a woollen garment is worn out, you can bury it in the ground, and it will eventually compost. Wool production however can have significant negative impacts on the environment and animal welfare. Always ask questions when sourcing and where possible opt for recycled or surplus.
Yak Wool [WY]
Warmer than sheep’s wool and softer than cashmere, Yak is silky soft, not itchy and has anti-microbial properties. While not vegan, Yak wool tends to be farmed by indigenous nomadic herders mimicking the natural movements of the Yak tribes. If the industry can refrain from the industrialisation of this fabric, it remains among the most preferable wool options and a possible tool to fight desertification caused by standard wool farming.
Discloser: These ratings were generated from AI and Last Yarn industry knowledge.